The coin doors and door parts on this game were not rusted or scratched up which was a pleasant surprise, so I left those be, but I did get the 2 main pedal assembly pieces and the monitor vents powdercoated.

The 4 bushings for the pedal all needed to be cleaned and lubed (use white lithium grease for these) and the potentiometer needed to be replaced as well (note: you can test your potentiometer in the test mode). Also, I needed to replace the pedal pad. Home Depot sells a 3M anti-skid tape which I was going to use, but I found it to be pretty abrasive, so I looked around and ended up finding another type of self-adhesive anti-skid tape at a local hardware store that has more of a rubberized composite and nicer feel, which I really liked over the abrasive stuff. I bought a few feet of it so if anyone out there goes to restore their pedal and needs some, just message me and I'll send you a piece.

Here's a picture of the pedal assembly after everything was completed:

I took the whole steering assembly apart, and saw that the large Thompson bearing had a piece chipped off of it and the housing was a bit worn as well, so I replaced the housing and both the large and small Thompson bearings with NOS parts. The steering wheel cap that came with it had all the silver worn off the Atari logo, so I replaced that with a NOS piece too:

My APB came with a WG4915 monitor that had typical APB burn in it, so I replaced that with a Neotec NT-500DXi9 which can accept CGA, EGA or VGA inputs. It really has an amazing picture, and it's also a bit heavier than your standard 19".

The DXi9 has a pretty extensive menu system and one of the settings is color temperature, which I changed from 6300K to 9300K as there was just too much color initially. There's also a 5600K setting too but that looked pretty much the same as the 6300K. I also toned down the contrast a bit, as well as the brightness. It took a few minutes or so playing around before I got it dialed in perfect. I mounted the interface pcb inside the control panel so that made it easy to adjust everything. Also, note that in the APB test mode there's a screen to adjust overall intensity which you need to use to correctly adjust the brightness.

Here's a a picture after replacing the bezel and the glass:

Also, the marquee lights were not flashing in attract mode like they were supposed to. They just both remained on. And in-game, they just remained on as well, which is also not right: during the game they should only be on when you press "SIREN". So I tested some parts on the triac pcb and found both N5756s to be bad. I ordered some of those, as well as some MOC3011s to have on hand. For those that have an APB with an improperly functioning marquee, odds are one or more of the components on the triac pcb have gone bad.

Here's a link to a short video that I made showing how the marquee is supposed to react during both attract mode, and during game play as well:

Atari_APB_Marquee

This is a picture taken of the interior after everything was reassembled and hooked up:

I also replaced the chrome t-molding on the cabinet as well as the fan, and the 4 FIRE and SIREN leaf switch buttons.  Here are some full length pictures of the left and right sides:

Here is a picutre of it after being moved into the arcade:

Still to do is to apply new side art to the cabinet and also to the seat, and replace the control panel and marquee overlays.