Re: RE: Pac repair

My methods are very similar to John's.. I use the blue sucker though. I
can achieve pretty much the same speed.. The other thing I do is keep some
very fine solder braid around.. Its good for cleaning everything up. Pay
for the good stuff -- the really course stuff isn't worth using.. You'll
just heat up the board and destroy it..

I don't recall if it was mentioned before but for some of the boards where
they either used crappy solder or minimal solder its better to ADD some
solder onto pad and then suck it all away.. It helps a lot.. (much
better heating, etc..) This is especially good when you're going back and
cleaning out the holes..

I was taught years ago that you should be able to consistently unsolder
a chip and have it clean enough to put back in.. And do no damage to the
board.. Obviously you can't do this all the time. I've clipped out my
share of chips.. I'll always sacrifice the chip to save the board -- and
some of the atari boards just want to destroy themselves..

Also -- to all the people that bend the legs over to "hold" the chip in..
Please don't. The army did a study that showed there was no need. Also
its a pain to get them out (as I'm sure John and everyone else that does this
a lot will attest to..) And even if you're installing a socket -- there
are still times when IT has to come out..

Kurt

> Pretty much exactly what I do with the little pump, but I heat from the chip
> side, and suck from the solder side with the board between the knees (don't
> wear shorts). Three minuits from decidion to swap the chip (16 pin), to
> testing with the new chip in a socket. The problem with the RS red bulb
> iron, is the the chip is not clean enough to stuff back in the socket if it
> is really not the culprit. With practice this may improve, however.
>
> Mike
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: John Robertson [SMTP:jrr@flippers.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 4:38 PM
> > To: rasterlist@synthcom.com
> > Subject: Re: RASTER: RE: Pac repair
> >
> > I too have settled on the silver Soldapulit as my desoldering tool of
> > choice. This one is anti-static as well as a good sucker! I find that I
> > can
> > be heating one leg, while pumping up the Solda with the other, then by the
> >
> > time the solder is molten I can place the Solda in place (about 1/8 inch
> > to
> > the side on the board and canted away from the solder point) then suck,
> > now
> > move the tip to the next junction and at the same time pump up the Solda.
> > Hold up to a light to make sure all the solder is removed at the end.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
** To UNSUBSCRIBE from rasterlist, send a message with "UNSUBSCRIBE" in the
** message body to rasterlist-request@synthcom.com. Please direct other
** questions, comments, or problems to neil@synthcom.com.
Received on Wed Dec 13 11:02:13 2000