Re: Star Wars - flyback suggestions?

Yep, the news I didn't want to hear :)!!!

Oh well, does anyone have just the HV for sale? I could trade a Star Trek
marquee towards one! (*WOW!! A Star Trek marquee :)!...I wanted to trade
this for a Gravitar marquee :)!!)

Thanks for the info John!

Ed

On Mon, 17 Aug 1998, John Robertson wrote:

> Hi Ed!
>
> This is probably a FB with a shorted turn. It has overheated and shortly
> will take the horizontal output transistor and maybe the regulator when
> it croaks. I would really recommend that you replace it now!
>
> John :-#)#
>
> Ed Henciak wrote:
> >
> > On a slightly related note, does a cracked flyback mean it's bad? I just
> > got a WG 6100 (Color XY) HV cage with a flyback that has a small chunk of
> > plastic missing and a hairline crack halfway down the side. There is no
> > black tar oozing out of it, and all the components seem fine. I was just
> > wondering...I really don't want to spend much time on something if it's
> > definately killed. Thanks!!!
> >
> > Ed
> >
> > (Alright, it's not a flyback, but an HV transformer.)
> >
> > On Mon, 17 Aug 1998, Clay Cowgill wrote:
> >
> > > > Er... I still don't nesc buy it. A shorted winding or two on the
> > > > primary
> > > > will be very obvious with a meter, and it may be trickier on the
> > > > secondary....
> > > >
> > > > but a wrap or two on the secondary won't make the flyback unusable...
> > > > and
> > > > if it is a short across (for instance) a significant portion of the
> > > > secondary coil, the resistance will show it.
> > > >
> > > > The only failure mode I can think of that a live test (with a high
> > > > freq.
> > > > signal) might get above and beyond a meter test is a bit of insulation
> > > > in
> > > > the secondary that has broken down (fine under no power, but a high
> > > > voltage arc in the secondary when in operation).
> > > >
> > > (I bet insulation breakdown in the windings is the #1 problem, at least
> > > in GO-7 flybacks...)
> > >
> > > The DVM-only technique seemed to work on my WG6100 flyback, so I was
> > > "sure" it would work on GO-7 flybacks too... My test case was about 20
> > > (23?) GO-7 flybacks (done about a year ago-- found a bunch of chassis'
> > > in the trash :-). I used a pretty nice bench meter at home (a Fluke
> > > 8000 series) and determined that 4 were definately bad (like blown in
> > > half and leaking "tar"), and the balance were "probably" OK compared to
> > > my brand-new "reference".
> > >
> > > I knew this *wasn't* likely, so I took 'em in to work and used the
> > > Sencore's flyback test function. Out of the 19 "probably OK" flybacks I
> > > had 7 that were actually good. The balance-- 12 -- were all dead.
> > > Verified by testing a handful in different chassis until I was convinced
> > > that the Sencore wasn't lying...
> > >
> > > As I recall there was a good bit of "difference" from flyback to flyback
> > > compared to the "reference", and with very low resistances to begin with
> > > it was too tough to tell changes of milli-ohms. You might be able to do
> > > it with a VERY accurate ohm-meter, but from my hands-on test the flyback
> > > test/inductor ringer was the only definite way to spot the problem
> > > flybacks...
> > >
> > > -Clay
> > >
>
> --
> John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
> Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
> mailto:jrr_at_flippers.com, web page http://www.flippers.com
> "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
>
Received on Mon Aug 17 19:39:32 1998