This problem is so common that I wonder if Sega just shipped their Space
fury cocktails this way. First off - I'd check *all* of the transistors
on the "Y" side - particularly Q601-606. Q605 and 606 are located on the
vertically mounted PCBs. The first Space Fury coctail I worked on had a
bad solder joint underneath the "Y" vertical mounted PCB - which caused
one of the Q601-Q604 transistors to burn out and leave the bottom portion
blanked out. If one of those transistors burns out - it will probably
burn out another component. I replaced the MPSu10 with some NTE
equivalents and it's been pretty solid ever since. I don't remember the
part numbers though (I think NTE290 or 171). They're a couple bucks a
piece (of course) so you might want to find some higher rated ones that
are more available and cheaper.
The one thing I would *definitely* do is check the solder joints and even
reflow some solder over any joint that looks suspicious. These monitors
look more like high-school projects than something a company would
mass-produce.
Matt
V E R I O
Orange County . Los Angeles . San Diego
_____________________________________________________________________
Matthew J. Rossiter email: mrossiter@verio.net
Customer Services Engineer http://socal.verio.net
8001 Irvine Center Drive Phone: 800.273.5600
Suite 1200 Phone: 949.450.8400
Irvine, CA 92618-2934 Fax: 949.450.8410
24 hour Tech Support: 888.306.4638
_____________________________________________________________________
On Mon, 1 Mar 1999 Thomas43@aol.com wrote:
> I just picked up a Space Fury coctail with a dead monitor. I tested th
> deflection transistors and found one dead. After replacing it, the monitor
> came up, but the top half of the screen is collapsed down into a line in the
> middle of the screen.
>
> I searched Deja News and found a post about resistor 736 burning up. So, I
> located the resistor on the bottom of the main board and replaced it. I fired
> up the monitor, and it looked great for about 2 minutes, then the resistor
> burned up again. The post I found, suggests replacing an MPSU10 that is right
> near this resistor. First, does anyone know a modern replacement for MPSU10?
> And......Would replacing the resistors with Flame-proof models, keep the board
> from getting torched when it fails again?
>
> Also, the manual calls for 3 amp fuses, and the board is labeled to use 4 amp
> fuses. Would putting in the lower value or even a 2 amp help protect the
> monitor from fires, or are the fuses just there for looks? I would have
> expected them to blow when I had shorted transistors? Are the resistor hacks
> on this monitor, designed to act like fuses?
>
> Another note of stupidity on my part. The screen was a little off center, so
> I turned the centering pot. I guess I went in the wrong direction. Instantly
> I saw a bright light and flames start to come up from one of the input
> protection boards. I hit the power switch in less than a second, but the
> resistor had basically disappeared. Spinal Tap style!!! All that was left
> were the two wires where it was soldered to the board....and of course a nice
> charcol stain on the board. It shorted two deflection transistors , but didnt
> hurt anything else. I just replace the resistor and the two transistors and
> it started working again....Lesson learned!!!
>
> P.S. If anyone has an Eliminator Security chip, I would glady buy or trade
> for it.
>
> Scott
>
>
Received on Mon Mar 1 15:13:54 1999
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