Re: WG6100 Question - Ongoing

Good feedback. I am going to be replacing the last of the smoked resistors
on the defelection board this morning and "fire it up".

Wish me luck!

Dennis
http://gameroom.godfrey.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Rodger Boots <rlboots@cedar-rapids.net>
To: vectorlist@mcfeeley.cc.utexas.edu <vectorlist@mcfeeley.cc.utexas.edu>
Date: Thursday, March 18, 1999 12:57 AM
Subject: Re: WG6100 Question - Ongoing

>Kurt Mahan wrote:
>
>> >
>> > Thanks for the tip, but if you could supply a clarification...
>> >
>> > The TO-3 socket is on the OTHER side of the chasis. The screw holes in
the
>> > chases are just plain drilled holes, no special insulation, so the
screw has
>> > to pass through the TO-3, through the chases, and THEN into the TO-3
socket.
>> > I can't imaging how the screws could NOT touch the chasis.
>> >
>> > How is it that where the screw passes through the chasis, that it does
not
>> > short out?
>>
>> Well, try just inserting the socket onto the chassis -- notice that if
>> you insert the screw it is kept in the center of the hole -- its not
>> shorting to the chassis. If you put the mica insulator on (lots of heat
>> goop), put the transistor on and press everything together, you should be
>> able to insert the screw and not have it shorting to the chassis.
>
>Not to nitpick (even though that's what I do best) but two of
>these replies have said to use lots of heat sink grease.
>
> WRONG!
>
>The object is to fill the pores in the metal and mica. Any more
>grease than it takes to do that will DECREASE the heat transfer.
>A very light coating is optimal. Or use elastomeric washers
>(a gray rubbery washer). Ungreased elastomer will transfer
>heat as well as greased mica. Greased elastomer works as
>good as beryllium oxide (looks like white ceramic) without
>the health hazards of beryllium oxide.
Received on Thu Mar 18 04:02:39 1999