Re: Q: Dedicated Major Havoc CPO Differences

> I don't know about that... What I'd do would be to cut patch metal like
> Mark described, then drill the holes just like you're going to use rivets,
> but *don't* drill holes in the control panel. Using a wire welder you just
> puddle the metal up in the holes for a second (try not to burn through).
> Then the rest of the process is the same-- use the bondo, sand it down, etc.

Or don't drill holes at all and just run a 1/4 - 1/2" wire weld on each of the
4 sides....

> (Basically all you're doing is replacing the rivets with tack welds.)
> Another approach would be to just cut out a disc of metal that's maybe 1/16"
> smaller as the hole to patch and tack weld that in a few places to the
> control panel. Fill in the gap with bondo and sand.

I'm not a professional welder by any means, but welding control
panels should be easier than welding body panels on cars (the control
panels are somewhere in the 12 - 14 guage thickness range - car panels are
*much* thinner and warp more easily).

There are plenty of techniques for welding thin metal to prevent distortion.
Look in any auto-body manual...

> A spot welder or plasma welder would be better, but I don't know anyone with
> that in their garage. ;-) (instantaneous heat to just stitch the metal
> together.)

plasma welder?? Do you mean TIG?

> If you try to do anything with a torch I'd fully expect the metal to warp
> and deform...
>
> -Clay
>
>

--- Cris

-- 
 Cristopher J. Rhea                     Mayo Foundation
 Research Computing Facility             Pavilion 2-25
 crhea@Mayo.EDU                        Rochester, MN 55905
 Fax: (507) 266-4486                     (507) 284-0587