Re: Sega Star Trek power strapping

I was curious about the windings....

However, considering that 220 is across 1 and 4, wouldn't it be odd
for them to change wire guages from one tap to another ?

Anyone else out there use 2+4 for input with the transformer
on a Sega XY game ?

I'm sure it will work, I'm just worried about the long term implications.

Oddly enough I have a converted asteroids that is a Star Trek, and I
checked it, and it's on the default 1+3 (110V). When I got the game,
the one thing that wasn't dead in it was the monitor (strangely enough).
It had bad boards (not all of them... just a couple), and bad power
supply (plus a rough roids cab).

The cockpit I'm repairing now had a bad power supply, the deflection
transistors were all gone, one of the 20W power resistors was smashed,
two resistors were torched, and one MPSU10 was fried. (I think the
reason is someone was trying to "debug" the monitor, and had the
heatsink assembly removed and allowed a deflection transistor (or two)
contact the monitor frame... *poof*...

With the parts replaced it works nicely now, but has a tiny bit of jitter...
gonne do the caps... that should clear that up... boardset worked fine
(thankfully).

-- Curt

>Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2002 02:48:15 -0500
>From: Rodger Boots <rlboots@cedar-rapids.net>
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>To: vectorlist@synthcom.com
>Subject: Re: VECTOR: Sega Star Trek power strapping
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>
>We used to have an Eliminator at the local Showbiz Pizza that we
>strapped 2 to 4 (sort of a 120 volt winding) to stop from blowing the
>monitor. Our line voltage was in the 125 to 130 volt range.
>
>The voltages on that game are strange. The 100 volt connection is for
>Japan, the 110 for USA (never mind the fact that the standard here for
>at least a couple of decades was 117 and these days is assumed to be
>120). The 220 must be for the European market.
>
>The only concern I had at the time was that the wire in the transformer
>between terminals 3 and 4 might be thinner and not be able to handle the
>current, but we didn't have a problem with it back then. But we didn't
>keep the game very long, either.
>
>Another way to handle this is to get a transformer from Radio Shack (a
>couple of Amp capability will do) and use it to buck out the extra
>voltage. You connect the primary to the incoming 120 volts and connect
>the secondary in series with one of the game's transformer leads AFTER
>CHECKING THE PHASING FIRST! A 12 volt transformer could buck 122 down
>to 110, the 18 volt model will buck 128 down to 110. But connect it
>phased wrong and instead of having it subtract 12 or 18 volts it will
>add it! That would be a very bad thing.
>
>
>
>"Curtis H. Wilbar Jr." wrote:
>>
>> Normally Sega says strap to pins 1 and 3 on the transformer for 110V.
>>
>> Power where I am is at 120-122V, and according to the G08 FAQ is one
>> of the contributing factors to popping deflection transistors (say when
>> the voltage jumps, etc).
>>
>> The G08 FAQ mentions in there that a tech used 110V tap and 240V tap
>> yielding a 130V winding. However, according to my sega manuals, the
>> strapping goes as follows:
>>
>> 1 + 2: 100V
>> 1 + 3: 110V
>> 1 + 4: 220V
>>
>> (note, my docs indicate no such thing as a 240V winding).
>>
>> However, by my estimation/calculation/guestimation, pins 2 + 4 would
>> yield a 120V primary winding... just perfect.
>>
>> I arrived at this by knowing 1+2 is 110 v 1+3 is 110V thefefore 2+3 is
>> 10V. now 1+3 is 110v 3+4 would be 220v - 110v (1+4 - 1+3) = 110V so
>> 3+4 + 2+3 = 110V + 10V = 120V.... seem logical ?
>>
>> Can anyone confirm this ?
>>
>> Also, if the G08 FAQ maintainer is listening... might want to check docs
>> on the power, as I can find no indication of wiring for 240V.
>>
>> -- Curt
>>
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Received on Sun Jun 2 10:25:35 2002