Just for giggles, I reflowed some solder on the GREEN (the blue
is my HV unit with the WinTRON on it and the one I really
want to get working) green HV board and installed another
jumper across W1 and then installed it in my game. It's acting
dead, but then again I haven't replaced the BU406D or anything
on it except for W1. I did measure voltages, just to see what I
could get and found the following:
* Locations based on the FAQ diagram *
VR2 #3 = -0.07v
VR2 #2 = -31.13v
VR1 #1 = +30.0v
VR1 #3 = +16.6v
Unless a bad flyback, BU406D, etc. pulls these voltages down,
I'd say my VR1 (7824) is bad.
Scott C.
Scott Caldwell wrote:
> Anyone have a picture of the bottom of a blue HV and the
> appropriate locations to check for +-24v and +-30v? The
> Amplifone FAQ shows the later green version and it's traces are
> different than my blue. I guessed on a few locations and got
> -31v, 28.8v and 0. I want to make sure I'm testing the correct
> points. If it helps, I can take a picture of my blue to send to
> someone to mark-up.
>
> As a side-note, my blue does have the large, brown (ugly)
> looking cap at C8. However, I do have a later green HV (also
> dead with a red HVT) and it has a newer rectangular style of
> cap at C8? Is one better than the other, odds of the later
> design still being alive, compatible with the blue design, etc.?
>
> Scott
>
> Christopher X. Candreva wrote:
>
>> On Fri, 16 Sep 2005, Scott Caldwell wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>> My Star Wars (amplifone) recently died and after doing the
>>> initial checks, the HV unit is to blame (no neck glow, but
>>> loads of deflection chatter - verified w/two working deflection
>>> PCBs). Based on the FAQ and my personal observations, I
>>> believe I should just shot-gun the HV unit with the following
>>> parts, since I don't know how many of these two replaced
>>> 4-5 years ago when the HV unit was revived). My question is,
>>>
>>
>>
>> To answer the simple part of your question, Mouser or Digikey,
>> whoever gives the better price on the order you are making.
>>
>> However, if it was rebuilt a few years ago already I don't think
>> shotgunning is the way to go. This will generally lead to frustration.
>>
>> One part not yet in the FAQ that does go is C8, see symptoms here:
>> http://www.vectorlist.org/Vectorlist/2003/04/0064.html
>>
>>
>>
>>> * Note: The caps were replaced on the HV unit about 4-5 years
>>> ago and none appear to be bad now, so should I replace them
>>> anyway, just to be done with it (I'm on the fence about it)? I
>>>
>>
>>
>> I wouldn't.
>>
>>
>>
>>> - Q1 (2N3904)
>>> - Q2 (MPSU07)
>>> - Q3 (BU406D)
>>> - Q4 (8239)
>>> - Q5 (2N3904),
>>> - VR1 (7824CV)
>>> - VR2 (7924CV)
>>> - 1N4001 (diodes, believe there are two at CR5 and CR6)
>>>
>>
>>
>>> From your list above: Check the 24v regs -- if they are HV they
>>> shouldn't
>>
>> blow. If +24reg is blown, suspect C8 as mentioned above. While
>> anything is possible, I wouldn't bet that any of those things went
>> bad. (As in I padded out an order with spares of all those and
>> haven't used them in years).
>>
>> The BU406D is a fuse. :-) I had to source these separately (from the
>> place in the FAQ that is on Long Island, don't know if they still
>> have any) -- and buy at least a dozen, or whatever it takes to fill a
>> min order. If ANYTHING goes in the Ampliphone you'll blow this.
>>
>> (Side note -- what would it take to add a fuse to the BU406D path, so
>> the damn thing doesn't keep blowing ?)
>>
>> I've had two ampluphone's fail years after a rebuild, and both times
>> it was C8.
>>
>> -Chris
>>
>> ==========================================================
>> Chris Candreva -- chris@westnet.com -- (914) 967-7816
>> WestNet Internet Services of Westchester
>> http://www.westnet.com/
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
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>> chris@westnet.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
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>
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>
>
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Received on Mon Sep 19 23:42:05 2005
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