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Since a WG6100 uses a CR-23 adapter, does that mean
any tube that uses the same adapter is a suitable tube
replacement in a 6100?
From: Jordan B <vg30.510@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Amplifone monitor - still stumped
on bright dot in middle.
To: vectorlist@vectorlist.org
Date: Wednesday, August 3, 2011, 12:00 AM
I have used CR-23 adapters on a
WG6100. You will have to remove the plastic end, and
the red and green guns will be reversed.
Testing and rejuvenation will work just fine.
Jordan B
On Tue, Aug
2, 2011 at 7:33 AM, Pat Danis <patdanis@verizon.net>
wrote:
That isn't quite correct. The WG6100
uses a CR-24 adapter (I believe) and the
amplifone uses a CR-23. If you remove the
plastic caps from the end of the tube, you
might be able to use the CR-23 adapter but I
cannot be sure. I just know that the neck
sockets are different.
Pat
On 7/25/2011 6:48 AM, Jeffrey Matthews
wrote:
Hi;
I have a problem with a WG6100
that has a constant "blue ghost"
in the center of the CRT which I
never figured out what was causing
it.
FYI, the same adapter for the
WG6100 CRT will work on the AMP
CRT as well.
Good luck.....
Jeff
On 7/25/2011 12:23 AM, John Huie
wrote:
Nope. I don't
own a rejuvinator. Anyone
out there have one for sale
that works with amplifone's
for a reasonably price?
Any chance this would
actually help fix it or at
least diagnose the problem?
---
Hey John, I am by no
means a guru here, but
do you have access to a
rejuvinator? They can
tell you a few things
about the condition of
the tube. Shorts being
one of them.
Jordan B
On Sun, Jul 24,
2011 at 8:38 PM,
John Huie <jehuie@sbcglobal.net>
wrote:
John
said, "I
suspect that
signal is your
problem
though. Either
it is not
coming from
the board or
it is not
amplified by
the monitor
chassis or
possibly the
picture tube
has a cathode
short and this
negates the
Z-axis level
completely.
Not sure about
that last
hypothesis
though..."
Thank you
John. I'm
focusing on
that last part
you said now
because it
makes sense to
me. I'm
thinking that
you mean if I
measure the
voltages on
either of the
3 color
signals from
the SW CPU
board that
will indicated
my Z signal,
correct?
Which is why I
really need a
scope.
However, since
both my SW
boards do the
same thing and
work fine in
my other SW
game, they are
clearly
generating the
Z signal.
Which leaves
the other two
options.
It seems
unlikely that
all 3 colors
would be
having
problems
amplifying by
the monitor
chassis. And
since the dot
in the middle
is pure white,
I think we can
negate that
possibility.
I'm not sure
this is true
but I'm not
getting a lot
of feedback so
that's my best
guess.
So that leaves
me with a
short in the
monitor as
being my most
likely
culprit. I
tested for a
short at the
pins and only
found a short
going from the
heater pins to
pin 4. I'm
still not sure
if that is ok
or not
though. And
if it's a
problem,
whether there
is a work
around or if
it means I'm
screwed and
need a new
tube.
Help. Pretty
please!
John Huie
wrote:
Just
to
refresh...this
monitor on
this Star Wars
works good and
the graphics
are all there
and everything
but there's a
constant
bright dot in
the middle.
If I turn the
brightness
down enough
for the dot to
go away then I
can't see the
other graphics
at all.
Here's what
I've tried so
far:
- Bought a
whole slew of
components
from Bob
Roberts to
rebuild the
deflection
board and HV
board
- HV is good.
- B+ is good.
- Adjusting
color drives
doesn't help.
Brightness
down and the
color drives
up still won't
let me turn
down dot
enough to see
graphics well.
- I don't have
any spare
parts to swap
in. I only
have 6100
vectors other
than this.
- double
checked
continuity
from focus
block wiring,
all
connections
under boots
are good. Good
continuity
back to HV
board and
color drives
on deflection
board are
good.
- Pins on neck
not shorted to
heater pins.
(Except pin 4
which isn't
used - could
this be a
problem?)
- W jumpers
are all long
gone.
- Resistors in
neck
board/ring are
good.
- Does same
thing with
known working
PCB set.
- Reflowed
J103 and
tested
continuity
along wires.
- Ground to
neck
board/ring is
good.
Still not sure
how to check Z
signal. What
components
should I be
looking at
that are
common to all
3 colors that
could be
causing this?
Any other
idea?
Thanks
everyone. I'm
working on
this for a
friend of mine
and just about
at the end of
my rope. |
Z-Signal is
the
brightness.
What sort of
test equipment
do you have? A
'scope would
be best - you
could check
that the
signal is
varying. An AC
setting on
your
multimeter
will give you
an idea if
there is
change on that
signal, but I
do not know
what the
result should
be for your
meter or
situation. If
someone here
has a
voltmeter and
can see what
reading they
get on the
Z-level when
the board is
on a set
screen test
that would
help you
figure out if
yours is
working
properly.
I suspect that
signal is your
problem
though. Either
it is not
coming from
the board or
it is not
amplified by
the monitor
chassis or
possibly the
picture tube
has a cathode
short and this
negates the
Z-axis level
completely.
Not sure about
that last
hypothesis
though...
John :-#)#
--
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, VideoGames)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out"
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