Re: Messed up my Black Widow

Hi John,

What you need here is a short finder - similar to the Polar Tone-Ohm or
Global Specialities Short-Squeak These devices find shorts by a changing
tone the closer you get to the short. The resistance level that the tone
changes is in micro-ohms.

ftp://ftp.flippers.com/TTL/TestEquipment/GlobalSpecialities/

If you live near Vancouver BC (Canada) you can borrow mine, otherwise
perhaps someone else on the list has one available.

John :-#)#

John Huie wrote:
> I mean both.....when power is on I get no LED and when I removed the
> pcb from the game, I measure zero volts between the ground and +5 test
> points. Which makes sense since they are shorted now.
>
> I've gone over the board pretty well with a magnifier but I'll do it
> again. And I'll have my son with aspergers syndrome take a look as
> well since he's amazing at finding issues like that. :)
>
> And to be clear, when I'm measuring the resistance and getting a short
> this is with the board removed from the game and all roms removed.
> Also, I neglected to mention that I had also ended up swapping all of
> the socketed chips over at one point so I've checked each of them for
> bent pins, lifted traces, etc. Can't see anything that looks amiss.
> And I'm still getting the short between +5 and ground test points with
> ALL those chips removed.
>
> I also plugged the board into the game again with all chips removed
> and still no LED or +5 reading there.
>
> I'm thinking maybe I have a hosed socket. Which would be hellish for
> me to find. I don't have a scope but I do have a logic probe. But
> getting no power means that would be worthless I think.
>
> And just an observation....I can't believe how responsive you guys are
> compared to some of the enthusiast forums. I posted on KLOV and got
> very little response to my question. I actually had a bit more on AHA
> but there's very few tech type folks on there. So thank you even if I
> don't get it going!
>
> John
>
> --- On *Sun, 7/1/12, vectorlist-steve
> /<vectorlist@arcadehacking.com>/* wrote:
>
>
> From: vectorlist-steve <vectorlist@arcadehacking.com>
> Subject: Re: VECTOR: Messed up my Black Widow
> To: vectorlist@vectorlist.org
> Date: Sunday, July 1, 2012, 3:27 PM
>
> When you say no +5 are you saying there is no +5 voltage measured
> at the board test points or that the power led is not lit?
>
>
> #1 I would recommend taking a few minutes and giving the board a
> good visual inspection.
> - Is there a cap or potentiometer that has been mashed down and
> shorting on another component?
> - Is the crystal and leads intact?
> - Do you see any cracked components or other damage?
>
> #2 Measure resistance across the +5 and GND test points next to
> the power LED with the board disconnected
> - I measured 1.575 K Ohms and 1.578 K Ohms on a second board so
> they seem to be fairly consistent
>
> #3 If you have an eprom programmer verify both sets of roms/eproms
>
> #4 If you have an oscilloscope, logic probe or frequency counter
> you can place on pin #40 of the 6502 CPU to watch for an active
> low reset
>
>
>
> On 7/1/2012 3:08 PM, John Huie wrote:
>> Well the boards are both out of the game right now but when they
>> were in I checked all fuses and made sure the interlock was on.
>> I could swap out the other board and get life.
>>
>> --- On *Sun, 7/1/12, vectorlist-steve
>> /<vectorlist@arcadehacking.com>
>> </mc/compose?to=vectorlist@arcadehacking.com>/* wrote:
>>
>>
>> From: vectorlist-steve <vectorlist@arcadehacking.com>
>> </mc/compose?to=vectorlist@arcadehacking.com>
>> Subject: Re: VECTOR: Messed up my Black Widow
>> To: vectorlist@vectorlist.org
>> </mc/compose?to=vectorlist@vectorlist.org>
>> Date: Sunday, July 1, 2012, 2:55 PM
>>
>> Interlock safety switches on the back door and front coin
>> door in the service mode position? ( Pulled all the way out )
>>
>> If not that, how about a blow fuse? Nine out of ten times
>> it's the simple things that folks stumble on.
>>
>>
>>
>> On 7/1/2012 2:50 PM, John Huie wrote:
>>> Thanks for all the tips guys. I think I tried everything
>>> you have suggested so far. Here's the breakdown:
>>>
>>> 1) Inspected all chips. There are no bent or broken legs.
>>> All came out nice and straight.
>>>
>>> 2) No obviously damaged sockets. I examined every pin of
>>> every socket visually with a magnifier top and bottom. They
>>> all appear clean and have clean solder on the bottom.
>>>
>>> 3) Can't see any damage to traces under the chips that could
>>> be leading to a short. Examined each with a magnifier also.
>>>
>>> 4) All roms were put in the correct way around.
>>>
>>> 5) When I checked the resistance between Ground and +5, I
>>> was just using the "Diode" setting on my meter. With chips
>>> in or out. On the board in question I'm getting an
>>> immediate beep and the reading is 0.000. On the other board
>>> I get no beep and it reads 0.291 resistance. Whatever that
>>> means.
>>>
>>> 6) Neither board is plugged into the harness when I'm
>>> checking this.
>>>
>>> 7) Thanks for the chart Jordan. Now I see where I screwed
>>> up. Step one!
>>>
>>> Any other ideas? Oh and David, if you can hit me up
>>> privately and let me know what you charge to repair these
>>> that would be great. I've got two that could use repair.
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>
>>
>
>

-- 
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, VideoGames)
                 www.flippers.com 
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out"
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