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If I remember correctly, the H series of voltage regulators were good for
5 amps. No need to change it. You might try using BOTH the
8000 AND the pair of 4700 uF capacitors together to minimize the valleys
of the filtered DC ripple.
<p>OR you could rewind the existing transformer, if it isn't currently
running very hot. (I'm not necessarily joking about this, but don't
try it unless you think you're up to the challenge).
<p>If there is still room on the transformer for additional turns (not
usually). On a large transformer they might be getting out as much
as a volt per turn, so we aren't talking much here.
<p>Another possibility is to boost the primary voltage to the transformer.
You want 16.5, you have 15. That's a boost of 16.5*100/15 = 110%
of the current line voltage. So take a small (at least one amp) 12
volt transformer, connect its primary to the line and the secondary in
series with your large transformer's primary. If you get the phasing
wrong it will further reduce the output of your large transformer.
If you get it right, though, the output should slide right up where you
need it.
<br>
<p>Paul Sommers wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">Rodger,</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">I pretty much came to the same
conclusion last night. Here's what I did...</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">Turned it on with no game board
- there was small ripples on screen edges (no sync or signal) but
no humbars.</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">I replaced the old 8000uf with
2x4700uf. No difference.</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">I went back and looked at the
schematic for the paddle problem. I then tried adding a 1uf lytic between
pin 5 of the 555 and GND. There is still paddle flutter, but it is constant
across the screen at about a half inch rather than up to 2 inches on the
extremes.</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">I then tried a 10uf in the
same spot but it went back to the big paddle flutter. I suspect the 10uf
was big enough to affect the timing.</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">There was nothing left to look
at except the voltage regulator - UA78H05S (of which I can find no info).
Checking against the schematic this is not the original - it should be
a LM323 which is rated at 3amps. All the 7805's that I could find were
rated at 1 amp or 500ma.</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">As I can't get a LM323 in Australia
I started to look on the web for an equiv and that's when it hit me.....</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">The original transformer put
out 16.5vac to the board. The transformer I was able to find is only 15vac.
I thought it would be enough as most voltage regulators have a bit of tolerance.</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">Checking the 5v at the chips
gave me 4.94v... pretty close.</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">I did a check of the local
electronic distributors catalogue and they have one at 18vac. I'm thinking
I should try this. The spec sheet on the common 7805 and the LM323 says
that it should handle both voltages, but maybe it doesn't have enough grunt.</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">But now looking at your mail
I could run into the problem if I go too high as well....</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">No-one has a 16.5vac transformer.
Why on earth did Atari used such weird voltages????</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">Thanks for working with me
on this one.</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">Cheers</font></font>
<br><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">Paul</font></font>
<br>
<ul><font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>----------</font></font>
<br><b><font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>From:</font></font></b>
<font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>Rodger Boots</font></font>
<br><b><font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>Reply To:</font></font></b>
<font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>rasterlist@synthcom.com</font></font>
<br><b><font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>Sent:</font></font></b>
<font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>Tuesday, 26 September 2000 03:16</font></font>
<br><b><font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>To:</font></font></b>
<font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>rasterlist@synthcom.com</font></font>
<br><b><font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>Subject:</font></font></b>
<font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>Re: RASTER: Breakout PCB & Motorola
monitor - questions for everyone!!!!</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial">You know, I didn't really think about it, but the
problem might be the replacement transformer! Check your +5 volts
on the game board and see if it is too high or too low. Voltmeter
OK, but scope is even better. None of this applies if you have only
ONE humbar.</font>
<p><font face="Arial">Possibility one, too low. In this case either
the capacitor is bad OR the transformer voltage is too low, causing the
regulator to drop out of regulation.</font>
<p><font face="Arial">Possibility two, too high. In this case, since
this is an early Atari board, the voltage peaks (if high enough) can cause
the regulator to quit regulating. What happens is these old boards
run most of their current through a large resistor connected across the
regulator with the regulator picking up the last little bit of current.
Otherwise the regulator will overheat and shut down. Now, IF the
transformer voltage were too high, the regulator current would drop to
zero and ALL the current would go through the resistor. This would
happen during voltage peaks and cause the +5 volts to increase (but only
during the peaks).</font>
<p><font face="Arial">What got me thinking about all this is that the problem
didn't start until the transformer got changed. If you do have a
high voltage condition and you are lucky enough to have a higher voltage
primary transformer setting available (example, you currently are using
the 110 volt tap and switch to using the 120 volt tap) you can fix it that
way.</font>
<br>
<br>
<p><font face="Arial">Rodger Boots wrote:</font>
<ul>
<p><font face="Arial">Paul Sommers wrote:</font>
<ul> <font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">The
8000uf at 80v won't fit on the board (the one that is their is surface
mount) so I'll get a couple of big ones in series - that should do it.</font>
BUT, before we get too carried away with this, I have a question.
Is there ONE hum bar or TWO? Very simple rule here:</font>
<p> <font face="Arial">
ONE hum bar = bad rectifier (or fuseholder in series with rectifier)</font>
<br><font face="Arial"> TWO hum bars = filter capacitor
problem.</font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">That's a good tip to remember.
No hum bars. It's a continuous wave.</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">Imagine a grayscale light to
dark - then put another on with the light side butted to the dark edge.
There is no break - it just keeps coming. It's a vertical monitor - so
it is going across the screen(or down/up if it was horiziontal). I guess
if two hum bars mean a filter cap problem - 8 could mean a bad filet cap
problem.</font></font>
<br> </ul>
<font face="Arial">OK, you're saying you have TWO dark waves? Or
two greyscales? Whatever, if there are two of anything the capacitor
(8,000 uF) is bad.</font></ul>
<font face="Arial">--</font>
<br><font face="Arial">Windows:</font>
<p><font face="Arial">32 bit graphical interface for a</font>
<br><font face="Arial">16 bit patch for an</font>
<br><font face="Arial">8 bit operating system written for a</font>
<br><font face="Arial">4 bit processor by a</font>
<br><font face="Arial">2 bit company that can't stand</font>
<br><font face="Arial">1 bit of competition.</font>
<br> </ul>
</blockquote>
<p>--
<br>Windows:
<p>32 bit graphical interface for a
<br>16 bit patch for an
<br>8 bit operating system written for a
<br>4 bit processor by a
<br>2 bit company that can't stand
<br>1 bit of competition.
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Received on Tue Sep 26 08:20:12 2000
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