Tim Soderstrom wrote:
> Turns out, I had some extra time before I had to head off to work so I
> went ahead and
<snip>
Tim,
Next time you are in the back of the cab, pull the fuses out of the
power supply down at the bottom of the cab and buff the ends of them
with some steel wool or fine grit sandpaper. Then do the same to the
fuse holders. It's a 2 minute job and it fixed the curl and "hum bar"
on my Ms. Pac. Google and check the rasterlist archive for hum bar for
more info. I believe some of the fuses have different ratings, so keep
track of which one goes where.
As for the bleeding colors, that can sometimes be caused by having the
brightness up too high, or the R,G,B (red,green,blue) being driven too hard.
Do you have any smoked plexi over the monitor to hide screen burn? If
you do, take it out and dial the brightness down (it's the black pot
labeled sceen on the neckboard) to where the area of the screen with no
lit pixels turns black, not a faintly glowing gray like it is when the
brightness is up too high. Now try to focus the screen with the black
pot over on the right hand side of the monitor.
Now start up a game, and check the colors of the characters, dots etc.
If the colors are washed out or the screen looks dim, dial up the red,
green and blue cutoff pots on the neckboard. Play with those 3 pots
till you get the colors looking as good as you can, and then go back to
the focus pot to fine tune the focus. If you can't get the colors
looking right or the screen looks dull and dim, then you need a cap
kit. Old capacitors dry up and that changes the voltages enough that
you can't dial them back in using the pots. Get a kit from Bob Roberts.
If the colors look good, and your blacks look black, and you still have
color bleeding, then your monitor may be out of convergence. But check
the other stuff first.
Sean McLachlan
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Received on Wed Sep 13 12:19:11 2006
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