Re: Re[2]: Ms. Pac-Man Monitor (WG?) bends UPDATE

There is a definite hum in the speaker. I thought it was just old :)
So I'll definitely check that one out. As for the bend, this is
static and always towards the right side of the screen and is more of
a wave as it moved from the top right to the bottom right. The top
and bottom-right sections bend down, and the middle section of the
maze appears to dip down, then slightly up, and back down again. The
hum in the sound is kind of annoying, however, so I'm going to try
this one first just to see if it fixes that.

Either way, I'll definitely try adjusting the monitor settings. One
question though, how dangerous is that :) I notice that the RGB and
SCREEN knobs are right on the neck of the monitor and the other POTS
for VFREQ/HFREQ are sort of tucked away in a not-so-easy-to-access
location. Also, the black POT I see to the right is the one connected
to the flyback. I assume that this is what you were referring to in
order to set the focus? This was the first knob I tried diddling with
and didn't see a whole lot of change, although thinking about it, I
want to say that the mis-alignment got worse after I played with it.

Should I worry about electrocution to the point that I need to
discharge the monitor to tweak any of these settings? I planned on
picking up a degausser this weekend so I may try to find a discharger
since I would feel much more safe than using a screwdriver, a wire,
and an alligator clip :) I'm guessing purchasing a plastic flat-blade
adjustment screwdriver might be a good idea as well to adjust the
POTS than my fingers.

Thank you very much for this information! I'm going to go right to
those fuses probably as soon as tonight!

Tim

On Sep 13, 2006, at 11:23 AM, Sean McLachlan wrote:

> Tim Soderstrom wrote:
>> Turns out, I had some extra time before I had to head off to work
>> so I went ahead and
> <snip>
>
> Tim,
> Next time you are in the back of the cab, pull the fuses out of the
> power supply down at the bottom of the cab and buff the ends of
> them with some steel wool or fine grit sandpaper. Then do the same
> to the fuse holders. It's a 2 minute job and it fixed the curl and
> "hum bar" on my Ms. Pac. Google and check the rasterlist archive
> for hum bar for more info. I believe some of the fuses have
> different ratings, so keep track of which one goes where.
> As for the bleeding colors, that can sometimes be caused by having
> the brightness up too high, or the R,G,B (red,green,blue) being
> driven too hard.
> Do you have any smoked plexi over the monitor to hide screen burn?
> If you do, take it out and dial the brightness down (it's the black
> pot labeled sceen on the neckboard) to where the area of the screen
> with no lit pixels turns black, not a faintly glowing gray like it
> is when the brightness is up too high. Now try to focus the screen
> with the black pot over on the right hand side of the monitor.
> Now start up a game, and check the colors of the characters, dots
> etc. If the colors are washed out or the screen looks dim, dial up
> the red, green and blue cutoff pots on the neckboard. Play with
> those 3 pots till you get the colors looking as good as you can,
> and then go back to the focus pot to fine tune the focus. If you
> can't get the colors looking right or the screen looks dull and
> dim, then you need a cap kit. Old capacitors dry up and that
> changes the voltages enough that you can't dial them back in using
> the pots. Get a kit from Bob Roberts.
> If the colors look good, and your blacks look black, and you still
> have color bleeding, then your monitor may be out of convergence.
> But check the other stuff first.
>
> Sean McLachlan
>
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Received on Wed Sep 13 13:04:34 2006