Re: Cine games, MH and other stuff..

On Mon, 9 Feb 1998 01:54:37 -0500 (EST), Jeff Anderson <mayday19@IDT.NET> wrote:

>I have been mad at work fixing a bunch of Cine games the past 2 days and I
>figured I'd like to try out all my other extra boards in the process..
>The cabs I hav that work right now are Armor Attack, Solar
>Quest, and Warrior. I also have a Taigunner which sems to have a few
>problems, The monitor needs a 7918 (getting it hopefully tomorrow) to work
>and the PS in it is bad. I suspect the boards do not work all the way
>though. I have a ripoff (monitor broken) and a Speed Freak (monitor and PS
>broke, boards unknown) too, but they are in storage
>right now, although I do have the boardsets for them here so I might as
>well test them while I am in the mood.
>
>I'd like to test the boards from TG, SF, and ripoff in my good cabs so can
>I just swap them out into the Armor Attack? I ask because tailgunner for
>instance has an extra
>connector coming off the monitor going to the sound board.

You can test the TG board in the AA cabinet (the joystick won't work, but
neither will the control panel...)
>
>I also have 2 Boxing Bugs boardsets and I guess I can just drop them into
>the solar quest since it has a 64-intensity level monitor and just bypass
>the color decoder board?

You'd be better off changing the jumper on the BB board form VAR to NRM and
testing it in the AA cabinet. The 64-intensity board is not very compatible
with the color board.

>What kind of spinner does
>this game use? I have spinners from Tac/Scan, Tempest, TRON, and mad
>planets so will any of those work? Is it similar to the steering wheel
>sensor in Speed Freak?

It uses a standard optical sensor, except it has much higher resolution than the
other games, you would have to do a lot of spinning to get the glove to rotate
just once. (around 4:1 I believe.)

>Another thing I was wondering about is that whenever I turn on the Armor
>Attack, the CRT heater gets REALLY bright, say 10 times brighter than it
>should be for just a second, then it works normally. This doesn't seem
>normal to me, but the heater is directly driven by the PS 6V right? I
>swapped out PSs and it still happened

The CRT getting bright in then dimming down is normal for Cinematronics game.
When the filament is cold is resistance is low, so it draws more current. As it
heats up the resistance goes up and the current consumption goes down.

If the brightness is excessive (compared to other games), then I like Kurt's
theory.

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Received on Mon Feb 9 11:08:39 1998