Re: Omega Race Acid Damage HEED HELP!

Thanks for the info Chris- I was going to e-mail you last night. I
re-subscribed to the list and saw the trailing end of your Omega Race
ordeal- last night I had the beast turned on, and I got game play sounds out
of it- fire, thrust, bouncing off the walls and an explosion. The game
seems to reset at the end of one life/ or randomly too. I'll do your
suggested procedures- they sound very promising.

Thanks

Nooner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Starr" <cstarr@speakeasy.net>
To: <vectorlist@synthcom.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 05, 2002 11:26 PM
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Omega Race Acid Damage HEED HELP!

> This is exactly the same symptom I was getting when the filter supply caps
> were bad on my game (you know - THE REALLY BIG ONES 100000mFD and 50000
mFD)
> . I would look for voltage dips in your +5 supply. This is really easy to
> check. If you check pin 14 on just about any of the the TTL chips on the
> motherboard (any 74LSxxx will do) you should see clean +5 power. You can't
> check this with a voltmeter, only a oscilloscope will do here. If you see
> anything other than a straight horizontal line on the scope, then that's
> where the problem is. My board was resetting itself every 8ms because the
> power sag was causing a perpetual reset state.
>
> Check the delfection transistors bolted on to the chassis of the monitor
> (2n3716, and 2n3792). If you use a ohmmeter, there should be an "infinite"
> resistance with respect to the monitor frame. There should be a mica
> isolation disc between the transistor and the chassis. If you get any
> reading at all, remove the transistors, clean the silicon grease off of
> them, clean the area on the monitor chassis, and reapply the transistor,
and
> check again. I have seen dirt collect on exposed silicon grease, and
become
> conductive after time causing a short circuit. The fact that you got any
> lines at all at least says that the high voltage flyback is functioning.
You
> already said there was no spot killer - that
> 's a good thing, and the fact that you saw any trace at all is promising.
>
> I wouldn't even bother with replacing the battery, it isn't necessary at
all
> for the game to operate. It only stores high score while the game is
turned
> off. For home use purposes, I wouldn't even worry about putting something
> in. If you are a purist, then that's a different story.
>
> I would stronly recommend neutralizing the battery damage (it's actually
> base not acid) with a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water and scrub with
a
> toothbrush to get most of it off. Let the board dry as much as possible,
and
> then go back with either flux spray cleaner or rubbing alcohol to clean
> things up.
>
> Your question about the blacklight is true, the monitor uses a 50/50
> silvered mirror glass at a 45 degree angle with a blacklight sensitive
color
> backdrop. The blacklight illuminates the artwork which shines through the
> mirror. The monitor screen bounces off of the mirror, you get a double
> image. It looks really cool when set up correctly. Original space invaders
> cabinets did this as well, most of them you see the artwork unfortunately
> torn out.
>
> I would strongly recommed downloading the pdf manual for Omega Race off of
> the stormaster or spies mirrors. Read the vectorlist faq on where these
are
> located for more info. This manual is INDISPENSIBLE for
repairing/restoring
> these games, as they cover all 4 versions of the game, upright, mini,
> cocktail, and sitdown. They will also tell you how to set up the game for
> free play using the dipswitches. Again - for home use, the coin door
isn't
> necessary when it's set up for free play, but a nice bonus to drop a coin
in
> the game for the most realistic arcade effect. The color coding for the
> wires is in there. I know from my cocktail game that the wirenuts were for
> wires leading to the speakers in the cabinet. I believe the upright
version
> has 4 speakers whereas the cocktail version only has 2 (i could be wrong
> here).
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Nooner" <nooner69r@cox.net>
> To: <vectorlist@synthcom.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 05, 2002 12:48 PM
> Subject: VECTOR: Omega Race Acid Damage HEED HELP!
>
>
> Howdy Y'all
> I'm back The Asteroids machine is still working great in case you were
> wondering. At any rate my new project is an Omega Race with a burst
battery
> (yard sale find $80 chassis in excelent condition). The resistors on the
> main board are coroded at the connections and will be replaced this
weekend.
> Has anyone used the 3.6v batteries from radioshack ($9.99) what have 2
leads
> coming off (I think they are cordless phone batteries)? It just seems
like
> an easy solution to the relocation problem. Anyway Radioshack appears to
> have all the resisters in stock so I'm going out there today.
>
> In test mode I am getting the right tones out of the machine.
>
> Other issues with them machhine- The Electrohome monitor doesn't display
> correctly (Imagine that). I am getting a pair of jagged lines that
> basically flow from the lower left hand corner and glide up to the upper
> right hand corner. There is no burn in- and no killspot (if that is an
> issue for these machines like on Asteroids).
>
> The previous owner tried to make it a free play machine by shorting out
the
> coin door (I guess the manual was too hard to understand for him- GET THE
> SCISORS AND MAKE IT WORK was his solution). So I'm ordering another pair
of
> mechanisms from Happ and resoldering his fix/break. Heres another
question
> on the coin door issue. There is a pair of green and gellow striped wires
> (paired with zip ties) one of them has a wire nut on it and connects to a
> red and white striped wire- that connects to the coin door right in the
> middle behind the williams plaque. The other green/yellow one has onlly a
> wirenut on it and is just hanging. Anybody know where that one goes?
>
> The flourescent tubes are working- however I was looking at KLOV and there
> was reference to blacklight illumination for these. Can anyone
> support/dispell this?
>
> I will surely have more questions- thanks
>
> Nooner
>
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Received on Sun Oct 6 06:59:27 2002