Re: cinematronics monitors

There is a brightness control and a contrast control. Brightness sets
the brightness of the darker lines and contrast sets the brightness of
the brighter lines.

If you set contrast to minimum, then set brightness so darker lines are
visible, then set contrast for desired brightness of bright lines, you
should be good.

andre wrote:
> Thanks for the info.. yes I have a pile of atari bw vectors. I put one from a battlezone in the AA and it looks far better than even the second crt I had tried. For the Star Castle I just went straight to a new crt. It looks ok but still too much seperation in the intensity between the lower and higher. I'll rebuild everything anyways...
>
> --- On Sun, 5/31/09, William Boucher <boucher@mnsi.net> wrote:
>
>
>> From: William Boucher <boucher@mnsi.net>
>> Subject: Re: VECTOR: cinematronics monitors
>> To: vectorlist@vectorlist.org
>> Received: Sunday, May 31, 2009, 7:52 PM
>> Rest assured that when everything is
>> working properly, all levels of brightness for the vectors
>> are very visible and quite sharp. If you are having
>> problems with focus and with setting the brightness levels,
>> I suspect that your high voltage supply box is needing some
>> rework.
>>
>> The HV supply has several outputs. First is a 90 VDC
>> that feeds the brightness circuit. Next is a 400 VDC
>> that controls focus. Next is 16 kV for the
>> anode. I would suspect C31, C33, C34 but I suggest a
>> full re-cap of the Keltron HV box.
>> See my parts list here http://www.biltronix.com/arcade_electcomp_01.html#Star_Castle_Monitor_Keltron_HV_box
>> If you have the skills to install a cap kit, then you can
>> order the parts listed here and rebuild your HV box.
>> While your at it, why not rebuild your chassis also.
>> There's a list for that also right below the HV list.
>>
>> Check these pages out:
>> http://www.biltronix.com/star_castle_3.html
>> http://www.biltronix.com/star_castle_4.html
>> http://www.biltronix.com/star_castle_5.html
>>
>>
>> Be aware that there was a run of bad Amprex CRT's used on
>> Star Castle. Check the label on the back of the CRT.
>> If it is Sylvania, you're okay. If it is Amprex,
>> you're probably screwed. It's possible too that your
>> Armor Attack now has a monitor that was originally shipped
>> in a Star Castle so check them both.
>>
>> Also, check the wires that run from the CRT socket.
>> You see those fat things molded around the wires about
>> mid-length? Those are resistors and they usually go
>> bad. Their value is not really critical. In my
>> Star Castle, I replaced them all with 1k 1/2W axial
>> resistors and covered them with about 3 layers of heatshrink
>> tubing. I've never had a problem with them since.
>>
>> Also, in case this will help, Atari games such as
>> Asteroids, Asteroids Deluxe, and Battlezone use the same CRT
>> type and they are directly interchangeable so if you have an
>> old GO5-801 monitor lying around, you can use that tube.
>>
>>
>> William Boucher
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "andre" <livnfree_can@yahoo.com>
>> To: <vectorlist@vectorlist.org>
>> Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 1:42 PM
>> Subject: VECTOR: cinematronics monitors
>>
>>
>>
>>> Got my first 2 cine games.. a Star Castle and an Armor
>>>
>> Attack. Both had extremely dim monitors even though cranked
>> up full on the brightness. I swapped in a different crt on
>> the AA (start on that one first) and got the brightness
>> back. But vectors were very out of focus. So I slowly turned
>> down the brightness until the bright vectors are clear and
>> in focus.. trouble is, at that point all the low intensity
>> vectors are too dim to be seen. I get a 'sorta' happy medium
>> where I can see the low ones, but the bright vectors are not
>> crisp enough for my liking. is this the way these always are
>> or should I try a new crt? The crt I just tried out is
>> another used AA one.
>>
>>>
>>>
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>>
>>
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>
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Received on Mon Jun 1 10:42:07 2009