Re: 13" Amplifone problems solved

Thanks Pat,

But if it wasn't for Rodger's help it would have taken much longer. Well it
also helped that we had a second one to look at. Otherwise I don't think we
would have figured out that RGB problem.

Kevin

On Mon, Jun 21, 2010 at 10:11 PM, Pat Danis <patdanis@verizon.net> wrote:

> I would like to take this opportunity to thank Kevin for his dedicated
> work in solving the quandary. I have to admit I am the guilty one that
> supplied Kevin with the incorrectly configured Pat monitor. I would also
> like to point out something he forgot to mention; I didn't hack it. He
> received it the same way I did. I am very grateful to have someone as
> knowledgeable as Kevin to be able to handle the many curve balls I've thrown
> at him lately.
>
> I seem to be a hack magnet for arcade items. However, I like to look at it
> as job security and o.j.t. for Kevin. Pretty soon he'll be able to quote
> parts of the Amplifone manual from memory. I only wish I had the time he
> does to work on my many projects.
>
> For those of you that would like more photos of the Pat 9000 amp monitor, I
> am providing a link to my photos of a second monitor. You will note that
> this particular board set has not been cleaned or hacked and actually fired
> up on first try. I can honestly say that I have finally seen a dedicated
> working red flyback. (Although this one is different from the standard HV
> units on the regular amplifones)
>
> These photos will only last on my site as long as I have room for them. If
> you would like to copy and use them by all means do so.
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/pat.danis/Pat9000Amplifone?feat=directlink
>
> Thanks again Kevin.
>
> Pat
>
>
> On 6/21/2010 6:13 PM, Kevin Moore wrote:
>
> Here is a link to some pictures with notes. Perhaps someone would like to
> put these on a server somewhere. As I'm not sure how long they will stay on
> my photo site.
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/Talon.K/13Amplifone?feat=directlink
>
> Kevin
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 21, 2010 at 3:15 PM, Kevin Moore <talon.k@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> First the Cinelabs HVT will work. It will require moving the MCI. In my
>> case I was able to use one of the original holes, and drill another to mount
>> it, and made a small wire bridge to that pin. It fits snug into the corner
>> of the HV cage.
>>
>> Next, the Anode wire sticks out the top, so you will have to drill a hole
>> in the mesh cage, disassemble the anode cup to run the wire, and mount the
>> mesh cage.
>>
>> There was a mod on the solder side of the deflection board, after going
>> through it, it looks to be a ground modification. There is mention of the
>> grounds being bad going to the two big power filter caps. Apparently this
>> was someone's way of solving the ground problem.
>>
>> The Spot killer light being on all the time, turned out to be Q17, and 18
>> in backwards.
>>
>> The final piece of the puzzle.. The RGB inputs do not plug into the
>> deflection board. They plug into the neck board. The deflection board is
>> labeled RGB, gnd gnd gnd. The neck board is not labeled. So the previous
>> owner plugged it in wrong. Moving the plug, Red being on the outer most pin,
>> then green, then blue.
>>
>> I would like to thank Rodger for tremendous knowledge and help last night,
>> and today.
>> I would also like to thank Pat for getting off his butt, and opening up
>> the other 13" Amp and sending me pictures. I love you Pat.. Yes I do.. :)
>> lol
>>
>> So as it stands, all colors are present, and separate, but equal. No
>> retrace lines, and the spot killer works..
>>
>> I really hate working on Hacked stuff (Pat)
>>
>> Kevin
>>
>>
>
>
>
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>
>
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Received on Mon Jun 21 23:45:51 2010