Re: 13" Amplifone problems solved

 FWIW, I believe that I still have a working red flyback from 19". I also have a few reds that ring good, but I haven't tried them on a working HVU.

If I have a working HVU and swap an unknown flyback, what parts do I risk? BU406D for sure.

Any measures that I could use to protect the working board for such a venture, or better just to replace the reds?

thanks

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Pat Danis <patdanis@verizon.net>
To: vectorlist@vectorlist.org
Sent: Mon, Jun 21, 2010 11:11 pm
Subject: Re: VECTOR: 13" Amplifone problems solved

  I would like to take this opportunity to thank Kevin for his dedicatedwork in solving the quandary. I have to admit I am the guilty one thatsupplied Kevin with the incorrectly configured Pat monitor. I wouldalso like to point out something he forgot to mention; I didn't hackit. He received it the same way I did. I am very grateful to havesomeone as knowledgeable as Kevin to be able to handle the many curveballs I've thrown at him lately.

I seem to be a hack magnet for arcade items. However, I like to lookat it as job security and o.j.t. for Kevin. Pretty soon he'll be ableto quote parts of the Amplifone manual from memory. I only wish I hadthe time he does to work on my many projects.

For those of you that would like more photos of the Pat 9000 ampmonitor, I am providing a link to my photos of a second monitor. Youwill note that this particular board set has not been cleaned or hackedand actually fired up on first try. I can honestly say that I havefinally seen a dedicated working red flyback. (Although this one isdifferent from the standard HV units on the regular amplifones)

These photos will only last on my site as long as I have room forthem. If you would like to copy and use them by all means do so.

http://picasaweb.google.com/pat.danis/Pat9000Amplifone?feat=directlink

Thanks again Kevin.

Pat

On 6/21/2010 6:13 PM, Kevin Moore wrote:
Here is a link to some pictures with notes. Perhapssomeone would like to put these on a server somewhere. As I'm not surehow long they will stay on my photo site.
  
  http://picasaweb.google.com/Talon.K/13Amplifone?feat=directlink
  
Kevin
  
  
  
On Mon, Jun 21, 2010 at 3:15 PM, Kevin Moore <talon.k@gmail.com> wrote:
  
Firstthe Cinelabs HVT will work. It will require moving the MCI. In my caseI was able to use one of the original holes, and drill another to mountit, and made a small wire bridge to that pin. It fits snug into thecorner of the HV cage.
    
Next, the Anode wire sticks out the top, so you will have to drill ahole in the mesh cage, disassemble the anode cup to run the wire, andmount the mesh cage.
    
There was a mod on the solder side of the deflection board, after goingthrough it, it looks to be a ground modification. There is mention ofthe grounds being bad going to the two big power filter caps.Apparently this was someone's way of solving the ground problem.
    
The Spot killer light being on all the time, turned out to be Q17, and18 in backwards.
    
The final piece of the puzzle.. The RGB inputs do not plug into thedeflection board. They plug into the neck board. The deflection boardis labeled RGB, gnd gnd gnd. The neck board is not labeled. So theprevious owner plugged it in wrong. Moving the plug, Red being on theouter most pin, then green, then blue.
    
I would like to thank Rodger for tremendous knowledge and help lastnight, and today.
I would also like to thank Pat for getting off his butt, and opening upthe other 13" Amp and sending me pictures. I love you Pat.. Yes I do..:) lol
    
So as it stands, all colors are present, and separate, but equal. Noretrace lines, and the spot killer works..
    
I really hate working on Hacked stuff (Pat)
    
Kevin
 
    
  
  
  

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Received on Tue Jun 22 09:18:36 2010