Re: A bad day in My arcade (V2000 help)

Hooking up Z to the scope changes nothing.... I still see all the
retrace line like if I didn't hook it up

No Blooming on the monitor before or after and I do have a HV probe..
That's how I know Im getting 12kv. But as I understand it.. The normal
reading should be 14.5kv and im not running that high. I guess I was
asking if I should be able to see something on the screen (distorted or
not) if I was running as low as 12kv, and if the answer was NO.. No
picture at 12 kv, I should replace the diode (which Id rather not do
unless absolutely necessary)

Christopher X. Candreva wrote:

> On Mon, 15 Jul 2002, Mark E Davidson wrote:
>
>
>>Like I said before.. There is a picture there. (on the scope) so I know
>>the board is putting out
>>
>
> 'Picture' is not quite a technical term. What you have is x/y deflection
> that matches expected output. You've verified that you have X/Y deflection
> comming from the board -- that's it. There's a third componant needed to
> make a complete picture: Intensity, which provides both relative shadeing of
> images and blanking of non-image related movements.
>
> (Now, how's THAT for a load of techno-bable :-) Seriously -- defineing your
> problem is half the battle.[1]
>
>
>>Would the loss of Z on the game board leave no monitor picture?
>>
>
> Sure. Z is intensity. If Z=0, then the picture will always be at intensity 0
> -- blank. Since turning up the brightness shows a picutres, that means
> deflection is getting there. (OK -- I'm assumeing here that 0 is blank and
> +volage is on. It could be inverse logic, etc, but it should be a waveform,
> not a steady 0 or +5 or anything)
>
> So, hook up the Z -- if the scope blanks too, there's your problem. If just
> the retrace lines go away, then it might be Z in the monitor.
>
>
>>Is there a way to test the HV diode? (most likely not.. but I have to ask)
>>
>
> Other than using an HV probe -- I would say you did by turning up the
> brightness -- was the picture bloomed ?
>
> -Chris
>
>
> [1] I've got an older house with plaster walls, and needed to rewire an
> outlet, preferabley without knocking holes in plaster. Problem was the old
> BX metal-jacket cable was stapled to the uprights, no way to get it out
> without makeing holes. The old wire was fraying, no way it could be saved.
>
> SO -- define the problem: The old WIRE needed to be replaced. The metal
> jacket -- the part that couldn't be removed -- was fine. Use the old wire to
> pull a new piece of Romex through the old jacket -- problem solved the
> simple way -- No holes, no mess.
>
> ==========================================================
> Chris Candreva -- chris@westnet.com -- (914) 967-7816
> WestNet Internet Services of Westchester
> http://www.westnet.com/
>
>
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Received on Mon Jul 15 10:51:11 2002