----- Original Message -----
From: teeray <teeray@earthlink.net>
Date: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 6:06 pm
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Starwars and Amplifone Issue
To: vectorlist@vectorlist.org
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: John Robertson <pinball@telus.net>
> >Sent: Mar 22, 2010 10:56 PM
> >To: vectorlist@vectorlist.org
> >Subject: Re: VECTOR: Starwars and Amplifone Issue
> >
> >pj pj wrote:
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "andre.huijts@upcmail.nl" <andre.huijts@upcmail.nl>
> >> Date: Monday, March 22, 2010 4:03 am
> >> Subject: RE: VECTOR: Starwars and Amplifone Issue
> >> To: vectorlist@vectorlist.org
> >>
> >> > "Super bright objects like a shield level change, the closest
> >> > green attract
> >> > mode
> >> > text or fireballs are so bright that the vectors grow out
> of focus"
> >> >
> >> > Isn't that the way it's supposed to be (except for the attract
> >> > mode). I
> >> > think I
> >> > read that on Jed Margolin's site that this was done on
> purpose (like
> >> > defocussing
> >> > the concentric rings on the Death Star explosion).
> >> >
> >> > The fireballs on my 25" Amplifone get out of focus when
> nearing too.
> >> >
> >> I read that as well, but after looking at youtube videos of a
> number
> >> of games shot off screen, mine is seriously much brighter to
> the point
> >> where if I don't cut the screen control down, its to the
> point where
> >> it's near blinding and unable to provide diming as the shot
> >> diminishes. On one of your videos, the shield loss
> makes the vectors
> >> drawing the gage brighter, on mine it lights up to the point
> where the
> >> vectors are so bright they distort as the video amps are
> going into
> >> clip and not just pusing the beam current to defocus. I
> could live
> >> with it if it were like yours. I'm going to look into whether
> cutting
> >> the B+ or changing the biasing of the video amps to match the
> values
> >> from the WG will make a difference. I tested the CRT
> before I bought
> >> the game, since having a med res tube on the amplifone was a
> deal
> >> breaker for me.
> >>
> >> On the last game John Robertson had, he was running a WG, and
> the
> >> fireballs looked "normal", even by WG standards.
> Other Amps I've
> >> seen are not like this one -they put the WG to shame (ducking
> from WG
> >> owners throwing things at me). My WG in an early
> production Tempest
> >> is much sharper at this point.
> >Ah, but that was my super-reliable raster conversions - it uses
> an early
> >colour Wells Gardner raster HV section not the wimpy Atari
> one...I
> >suspect the original Ampliphone just couldn't keep up with the
> demand!>
> >
> >
> >John :-#)#
> >
> >--
> >John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
> >Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, VideoGames)
> > www.flippers.com
> >"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out"
> >
> >----------------------------------------------------------------
> -----------
> >>
> >>
> >>From: pj pj
> >>
> >>Sent: Mar 23, 2010 7:07 PM
> >>
> >>To: vectorlist@vectorlist.org
> >>
> >>Subject: Re: VECTOR: Starwars and Amplifone Issue
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>Here's a link to some pictures of what is happening with the
> game. Hope pic:=words*1000
> >>http://geepeeg.spaces.live.com/?lc=4105
> >>
> >>
>
> In this order, on the deflection board
> Check CR14, CR15, CR16, CR17 and C17, C18
> Make sure C17 and C18 are installed correctly and correct size.
> Still no go
> Check CR2, CR11
> Still no go
> Check CR3, CR4, CR12, and CR13
>
> Tim
>
Thanks Tim.
I've changed everything on the list except CR14-17 already to no avail. I figured that the power rectifiers would be ok, since I've only have about 0.4V AC ripple on the lines going to the HV board, and the distortion is static, there is no moving jitter and the crosshatches as well as the brightness test screen are perfect.
Is it sensitive to the types of diode other than current and voltage rating, or will most any 100V 6A diode work? The data sheet for the MR751 states standard recovery.
C17+18 are 4700/50. I had a hell of a time finding these. I condemned the original ones since there was over 1.5V ripple on the DC rails. There still was no dancing vectors though even at that point.
Simon suggested the ceramic caps on the AVG near the DACS and I'm presuming the ceramic caps C4 and C14.
What effect, if any would the bigblue have on the picture were it failing? I did notice that the 10.x unregulated volts on the game board is at ~13v.
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Received on Tue Mar 23 21:53:15 2010
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